Glycolic Acid Peel
The gold standard AHA with the smallest molecular size — delivering maximum penetration for brighter, smoother, more youthful skin.
AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) · Water-Soluble · Derived from Sugar Cane
What Is a Glycolic Acid Peel?
Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugar cane. It has the smallest molecular weight of all AHAs (76.05 g/mol), which allows it to penetrate the stratum corneum more effectively than any other water-soluble acid. This superior penetration is why glycolic acid is widely regarded as the gold standard AHA in clinical dermatology.
The peel works by disrupting the ionic bonds between corneocytes (dead skin cells) in the outer epidermis, accelerating desquamation and revealing fresher, healthier skin beneath. At higher concentrations, glycolic acid penetrates into the papillary dermis, stimulating fibroblast activity and new collagen and glycosaminoglycan synthesis — addressing fine lines, photo-ageing, and textural irregularities at a structural level.
At CosmeDocs Harley Street, we use pharmaceutical-grade glycolic acid at concentrations from 20% to 70%, combined with supporting active ingredients to maximise efficacy and minimise irritation.
Supporting Ingredients
Retinol (Vitamin A)
Used in pre-treatment protocols to thin the stratum corneum and accelerate cell turnover, allowing glycolic acid to penetrate more uniformly. Post-peel, retinol supports ongoing collagen synthesis.
Mandelic Acid
A larger-molecule AHA blended with glycolic acid for patients with darker skin tones. The combination provides effective exfoliation with a reduced risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Azelaic Acid
Added for its anti-inflammatory and tyrosinase-inhibiting properties. Particularly effective when treating melasma or resistant hyperpigmentation alongside glycolic resurfacing.
Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid)
A potent antioxidant applied post-peel to neutralise free radicals, support collagen cross-linking, and brighten the complexion. Enhances the anti-ageing benefits of glycolic acid.
Kojic Acid & Glutathione
Melanin-inhibiting agents that complement glycolic acid's exfoliating action to address stubborn pigmentation, age spots, and uneven skin tone.
Pyruvic Acid
A keto acid adjunct that provides deeper penetration and sebum regulation. Used in combination peels for patients with both texture concerns and mild oiliness.
Am I Suitable?
Ideal For
- • Fine lines and early wrinkles
- • Dull, lacklustre complexion
- • Sun damage and photo-ageing
- • Uneven skin texture and tone
- • Hyperpigmentation and age spots
- • Mild acne scarring
May Not Be Suitable
- • Very sensitive or reactive skin
- • Active eczema or psoriasis
- • Pregnancy or breastfeeding
- • Recent isotretinoin use (within 6 months)
- • Sunburned or recently lasered skin
- • Active herpes simplex (cold sores)
Frequently Asked Questions
Other Peel Types
At a Glance
Duration
20–45 minutes
Course
3–6 sessions
Recovery
1–7 days peeling
Types
Light, medium, deep
Treatment Pricing
Includes skin assessment
Natasha W.
"After three chemical peels my pigmentation has faded dramatically. My skin is the clearest it's been in years. Worth every session."
More real experiencesGlycolic Acid Peel London — Clinical Guide
Glycolic acid (hydroxyacetic acid, C₂H₄O₃) is the simplest alpha hydroxy acid. Derived from sugar cane, it has been used in clinical dermatology for over three decades, with extensive peer-reviewed evidence supporting its efficacy in treating photo-ageing, melasma, acne, and textural irregularities.
The mechanism of action involves disruption of the calcium-dependent ionic bonds between corneocytes in the stratum corneum, leading to accelerated desquamation. At concentrations above 50%, glycolic acid penetrates beyond the epidermis into the papillary dermis, where it stimulates fibroblast proliferation and increases production of collagen types I and III, hyaluronic acid, and elastin fibres.
CosmeDocs enhances glycolic acid peels with a multi-active protocol. Pre-treatment retinol priming thins the stratum corneum for uniform acid penetration. Mandelic acid is co-formulated for Fitzpatrick IV–VI patients to reduce melanocyte stimulation risk. Post-peel antioxidant application — vitamin C, glutathione, and kojic acid — protects newly exposed skin from UV-induced free radical damage and accelerates the brightening response.
Our Peel to Reveal cocktail incorporates glycolic acid alongside lactic, salicylic, and TCA acids with azelaic acid, pyruvic acid, and botanical extracts, creating a comprehensive single-session resurfacing treatment customised by the clinician. Bold, natural, always your way.